I write for a French online magazine called TTT and here is my article for the September issue, with the English translation:
"Prints were the name of the game this season. And just when I thought I was bored with florals, Jil Sander showcased their Autumn 2011 collection. The black and orange prints and cocoon coats came along to reignite my desire for all things flora and fauna. The sumptuous prints are actually from couture fabric house Bucol's archives and lend a feminine feel to the modernist the collection.
Over at the label of the moment, Mary Katrantzou continued her winning streak with yet another sensational collection of prints, inspired by an eclectic array of precious objects. Her objective? "I want to push print to the limit". Ming vases, Faberge eggs and cloisonné enamel all came together to create this hectic yet sumptuous collection, inspiring sartorialists to experiment with their style and break the rules of print and colour.
Comme de Garçons and Dries van Noten also toyed with ideas of palette and texture to great effect.
van Noten studied the unlikely parallels of David Bowie and the Ballets Russes. The shapes were again simple but lacking a certain 'je ne sais quoi' that had been seen at Jil Sander, however the use of collage and colour made up for what was lacking in shape and cut. The prints harped back to sixties Op art and interiors rather than seventies Bowie, although he did work contrasting prints to sensational effect. The influence of the Ballets Russes was a little clearer with the interesting use of colour and motifs. The show opened with a monotone outfit consisting of a highly geometric arrow print skirt paired with a swirling marbled jacket which subtly complimented lending an edge to the designs. But again the garments lacked the drama and movement of the costumes and musician they were influenced by.
Meanwhile the patterns at Comme de Garçons were diverse, from equestrian print and Islamic design to 50s floral and 60s paisley, all contained within those flattering, beautifully draped and equally mad silk scarf dresses, from Kawakubo's personal collection . They were kept casual with the addition of shoe of the season, Brothel Creepers, and frilly school girl socks. The dresses, whether worn casual or formal, are sure to be a hit with the 'Fash Pack' this autumn.
Designers across the board have used an array of prints and moulded them together into coherent and covetable collections. But will the trend translate onto the streets? I hope so."
